Off The Beaten Path

Cedar Key:  An Unforgettable Old Florida Experience

By Annetta J. Burch

 “Wake up, bud,” I said to Taco, as we began the short drive over the Number 4 Bridge on Highway 24.  The scenery during the drive took my breath away. “We are going to have an outstanding adventure.”  Taco, my buddy, looked at me, blinked, and went back to sleep.  Little did either of us know what an adventure for the two of us was about to begin. A few weeks turned into 8 months in a Gulf paradise for this Florida native and her dog, Taco.
Cedar Key, a very old, historical town, is one of the oldest ports in Florida. The State’s first railroad system connected it to the east coast, making it a major supplier of timber and seafood products to the northeast.  The original Cedar Key was named Asenta Otie Island.  In 1851, by order of the President, Seahorse Key (named for its resemblance to a seahorse) was reserved as a lighthouse site. On August 1, 1854 the light was first lit to guide shipping in and out of Cedar Key.  Faber and Eagle cedar pencil factories were among the industries located on the original island, as well as Donax Whisk brooms. On September 23rd, 1896 a hurricane wiped out the town of Cedar Key.  All that remains on its original site is a graveyard. Buildings were floated by barge across the channel separating Asentie Otie and Way Key and the town was reestablished at its present location. During the War Between the States Cedar Key was occupied by Federal troops and there was a skirmish between Federal and Confederate troops at the Number 4 Bridge. 

Cedar Keys actually form a chain of barrier islands, making it the home to a variety of migratory and shore birds, which are federal-protected sanctuaries.  The Cedar Key Scrub State Reserve includes salt marshes and hiking trails, bicycling, and areas for canoeing and kayaking.

Average temperatures for the Cedar Keys vary.  Temperatures range from the 40’s – 70’s in winter, 50’s – 80’s in spring, 70’s to 90’s in summer, and from the 50’s to 80’s in fall.

The town is self-contained, with a City Hall, Library, Fire Department, Police Department, laundry mat, garage, churches, civic organizations, and industries such as clamming and fishing, which go hand-in-hand with its lifestyle.

Cedar Key is about 50 miles (80 km) southwest of Gainesville, Florida; 135 miles (218 km) north of Tampa; and 130 (209 km) miles southwest of Jacksonville, Florida. The population is estimated at about 950 people.

The area has a variety of restaurants, gift shops, taverns, cafes, and places to stay. In the 2^nd Street Downtown District, many of the town’s buildings are historical and have been preserved.  Get a glimpse of some of Old Florida and what life was once like. A place where one can close their eyes and go back to a different time and place.  

There are some local traditions that add to the old charm of the place. If you drive downtown, you will need to be prepared to stop for locals who may stop in the middle of the street to visit with someone they recognize walking down a sidewalk. It took me awhile to get used to the laid back lifestyle. There is also a daily ritual among residents to gather outside the post office in town while checking their mail to visit and catch up with what is going on in Cedar Key.

Cedar Key Arts Center and Keyhole, located in the 2^nd Street Downtown Historical District, feature the community of artists who reside in the area. Noted authors are also residents of Cedar Key.  Artists and writers have much to inspire them with the natural beauty of the environment and the old alongside the new.  Festivals include the Cedar Key Seafood Festival in October, and the Cedar Key Arts Festival in April.  Make reservations early if you plan to stay overnight or the weekend; if not, arrive early to get a parking space.

The blending of old and new is Cedar Key today.  There is one gas station/store as you enter Cedar Key on Highway 24, one convenience store in town and one grocery market.  For outdoor enthusiasts there are kayaks, canoes, boat and fishing excursions, and golf carts for rent to explore Cedar Key.  The Cedar Key Museum is a must for history lovers to the island to learn more about such a vital place in Florida’s history.  The Cedar Key Historical Society and Andrews House invite visitors to take a peek into the past with exhibits and photos.

Sunsets are an event.  There is a gathering of folks daily just to watch the sunset.  I also wanted to see the sunrise, and would be “up and at ‘em” early, just before sunrise, walk the few blocks to the downtown area, then down the middle of Second Street.  At that time of the morning, the only traffic would be someone stopping for breakfast at Cook’s Café. I’ll never forget those tempting smells of a Southern breakfast, Florida-style, coming from the café as I approached. I got my coffee to go and walked to the end, circled around the dock area, and walked First Street, the street along the Gulf, watched the sun come up before strolling on to the apartment, and took Taco out for his walk. This quickly became a daily routine for the next 8 months.

I return several times a year for a day trip or a few days.  Cook’s Café is no longer open.  Taco is no longer with me, but the memories are there forever and new ones made during each visit.  During a walk anywhere on the island, one may savor the smells and atmosphere. Stop and linger at the Gulf. Enjoy the feel of the gentle breezes bringing those salty smells directly to you as only the Gulf can. Enjoy the tide as it comes in or out as you watch the sun come up, or join the crowd to watch the sunset.  Cedar Key – a place to make good memories.

If You Go:

The Cedar Key Area Chamber of Commerce

Location: 450 Second Street

P. O. Box 610, Cedar Key, FL 32625

Phone:  (352) 543-5600

Email:  info@cedarkey.org